The grand loop: Oman's coast, Wahiba Sands and mountains by 4x4 in 10 days
Coast · Wahiba Sands · Jebel Shams
Photo: dconvertini (Domenico Convertini) · CC BY-SA 2.0
This self-drive loop from Muscat joins the three landscapes of northern Oman in one trip. You start on the coast, with a swim in Bimmah Sinkhole and Wadi Shab, the dhow yard in Sur and a night tour to watch green turtles at Ras al Jinz. Then you go inland to the pools of Wadi Bani Khalid and two nights in the Wahiba Sands, now officially named the Sharqiya Sands. The second half is in the Hajar Mountains: two nights on the Saiq plateau of Jebel Akhdar, Nizwa and the old villages of Al Hamra and Misfat, and two nights on the rim of the Wadi Ghul canyon below Jebel Shams. On the way back you visit the forts of Bahla and Jabrin, and the last day is in Muscat.
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The driving is balanced. The longest days are about 230 to 275 km, almost all on paved roads, and three stops last two nights, so you unpack less and walk more. The only sand driving on the route is a marked track of 5–15 km to your desert camp. The mountain roads are long and steep: a police checkpoint at the foot of Jebel Akhdar lets only 4x4 vehicles continue, and near the top of Jebel Shams there are gravel sections and roadworks. In daylight you may also drive on the dunes, and on beaches where the law allows it, but never in a wadi bed or on a wadi track.
You sleep in the rooftop tent for eight nights and in a Muscat hotel on the last night. We count rental days as the nights between the pick-up date and the return date, so this trip is a 9-day rental. If you start on a Saturday, Day 5 is a Wednesday, the day of the women's souq in Ibra, and Day 7 is a Friday, the day of the goat market in Nizwa. With less time, our 3- to 5-day routes cover each part of this loop on its own.
All trip details
Photos
Route map
- ★Start and end: Muscat International Airport or your hotel in Muscat
- 1Bimmah Sinkhole (Hawiyat Najm Park) · Day 1
- 2Wadi Shab · Day 1
- 3Sur dhow yard and Al Ayjah lighthouse · Day 2
- 4Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve · Day 2
- 5Wadi Bani Khalid · Day 3
- 6Al Wasil · Day 3
- 7Ibra · Day 5
- 8Birkat al Mawz · Day 5
- 9Al Aqur, Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah (path W18b) · Day 6
- 10Nizwa Fort, souq and Friday goat market · Day 7
- 11Misfat al Abriyeen · Day 7
- 12Balcony Walk (W6) · Day 8
- 13Bahla Fort · Day 9
- 14Jabrin Castle · Day 9
- 15Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque · Day 10
- 16Mutrah Souq · Day 10
Day by day
Day 1
Muscat to Bimmah Sinkhole, Wadi Shab and Fins- 1Bimmah Sinkhole (Hawiyat Najm Park)
- 2Wadi Shab
- Fins beach
Details
Collect your 4x4 in the morning (pick-up is between 08:00 and 20:00) and go through the rooftop tent, the electric fridge and its separate freezer, and the compressor with our team. Stock up on food and water in Muscat, because large supermarkets are rare on the coast road. Then drive south-east on the A2, between the mountains and the sea. Swim in Bimmah Sinkhole, then walk and swim in Wadi Shab in the afternoon. Drive about 15 km back north to Fins for your first night by the sea.
- 1Bimmah Sinkhole (Hawiyat Najm Park) — A collapsed limestone hollow with a pool of clear blue-green water, between the villages of Dibab and Bimmah. Concrete steps lead down to the water and you can swim at your own risk; there is no lifeguard. The park has toilets, shade and picnic tables. In 2026 some visitors paid about 500 baisa entry and others paid nothing, so carry small cash and check before you go. Swim in modest swimwear or a T-shirt and shorts.
- 2Wadi Shab — Park under the highway bridge near Tiwi. A small boat takes you across the first pool: 1 OMR per person return in 2026, cash only, usually from about 8:00 to 17:00. The walk up the gorge to the deep pools takes 45–60 minutes each way. Strong swimmers can swim through a narrow gap into a cave with a waterfall. Wear water shoes, keep your phone in a dry bag, and do not go in if rain is forecast. Start the walk by 14:00 at the latest.
- Fins beach — Small pebble and sand beaches with clear turquoise water between low cliffs. Bring what you need, as there are no shops on the beach. A good place for a last swim before sunset.
Where to sleep: Sleep on flat ground above the beach or on the low cliffs at Fins. Fins is in the wilayat of Quriyat, in Muscat Governorate, so Muscat Municipality's camping rules apply: you need a permit only if you stay more than 48 hours. Camp at least 10 m back from the beach, at least 100 m from homes and away from fishermen's boats, and stay above the high-tide line. Fires and barbecues on the beach are not allowed. The municipality can limit camping to the places it allows, so follow local signs. Another option is the camping-vehicle parking at Fins Beach Park, opened by Muscat Municipality in August 2024; check fees and rules first. Weekends (Friday and Saturday) are busy.Tip: If your flight lands after midday, or Day 1 is a Friday or Saturday, when Wadi Shab is busy, visit only Bimmah today and sleep at Fins. Walk Wadi Shab at 8:00 the next morning, when it is quiet. Day 2 is short, so it still fits.Photo: Andries Oudshoorn · CC BY-SA 2.0
Day 2
Qalhat, Sur and the turtles of Ras al Jinz- Qalhat and the Bibi Maryam Mausoleum
- 3Sur dhow yard and Al Ayjah lighthouse
- 4Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve
Details
A short driving day with time to look around. Stop at Qalhat, then drive on to Sur, an old trading port where wooden dhows are still built by hand. Watch the carpenters in the boatyard by the lagoon, then cross the bridge to Al Ayjah for the lighthouse and the view back over the old town. Fill the tank and buy fresh food and water in Sur. In the late afternoon, drive on to Ras al Hadd at the eastern tip of Oman. Choose your spot for the night in daylight, have dinner and arrive at the reserve by 20:30 for the night tour.
- Qalhat and the Bibi Maryam Mausoleum — A short exit from the A2. This domed tomb from the early 14th century is the only building still standing in the old port city of Qalhat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2018. The site has been closed at times in recent years for excavations, but you can see the mausoleum from the barrier. Check before you go.
- 3Sur dhow yard and Al Ayjah lighthouse — Watch wooden dhows being built at the open-air yard by the lagoon, next to the bridge to Al Ayjah; a small fee may be charged. See the restored Fatah Al Khair dhow, then cross the bridge to the white lighthouse of Al Ayjah and walk the lanes of old houses. Ask before you photograph people.
- 4Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve — Guided night tour from 21:00 (arrive by 20:30). A reserve guide leads small groups onto the beach to watch green turtles nest. Plan about 1.5 to 2 hours. The guides use red torches only: no flash and no phone lights. In October 2026 the reserve's website listed OMR 12 per tourist adult and OMR 6 per child aged 6 to 12 (under 6 free). Times can change with the season, so confirm them when you book.
Where to sleep: Not on the beach. The coast from Ras al Hadd to Ras al Jinz is a protected turtle reserve: camping on the nesting beaches at night and driving on the beach are prohibited, and at night you may go onto the nesting beaches only with a reserve guide. Choose your spot in daylight, before the tour: flat gravel ground several kilometres inland, right next to the paved road, outside the reserve and away from villages, farms and wadi beds. Drive there slowly after the tour and stay on the paved road: our cars may not drive off-road after dark. If you prefer not to drive after dark, book a room or eco-tent at the reserve (room rates include the night and dawn turtle tours) or a hotel in Ras al Hadd.Tip: Book the turtle tour before your trip, online, by phone or by email; the contacts are on the reserve's official website. Places are limited, so book early for weekends and holidays.Photo: Andries Oudshoorn · CC BY-SA 2.0
Day 3
Ras al Jinz to Wadi Bani Khalid and the Wahiba Sands- Ras al Jinz dawn tour
- 5Wadi Bani Khalid
- 6Al Wasil
Details
If you saw no turtles last night, join the dawn tour at 5:00 (a separate ticket unless you stay at the reserve). Then drive back to Sur and take the N4 inland across wide gravel plains. A side road climbs into the hills to Wadi Bani Khalid, where green pools lie between palm trees and large boulders. In the afternoon, return to the N4 and drive west to Al Wasil. Lower your tyre pressure there and follow the marked track into the orange dunes of the Wahiba Sands.
- Ras al Jinz dawn tour — Starts at 5:00; arrive by 4:45. You may see the last turtles going back to the sea and, in season, hatchlings.
- 5Wadi Bani Khalid — Entry is free, and most 2025–2026 reports say parking is free too. The car park toilets cost about 400 baisa and the changing tents about 100 baisa, in cash. The first pools are less than 5 minutes' walk from the car park, and Muqal Cave is about 1 km further up the wadi. Bring a head torch for the cave. Signs ask swimmers to cover upper arms and knees.
- 6Al Wasil — Fill the tank at Al Wasil, the last fuel before the sand. Lower the tyres to about 18–20 psi (1.2–1.4 bar) with the gauge in your kit before you leave the tarmac. Small tyre shops in the area can also help.
Where to sleep: Book two nights. Option 1: a desert camp on a marked track from Al Wasil or Al Mintirib. Prices vary a lot. In 2025–2026 listings, simple camps started at roughly OMR 15–25 per person with dinner and breakfast, and luxury camps cost OMR 100 or more per tent per night. Prices change with the season, so check before you go. You can also ask a camp if you may sleep in your own rooftop tent and pay for dinner and showers. Option 2: the edge of the dunes. Stop on firm, flat ground, out of sight of houses, farms, camel pens and other camps. In daylight you may leave the track and drive onto the dunes to reach a spot, but do not drive on sand after dark.Tip: Plan to reach Al Wasil by 15:30. From mid-November to January the sun sets between about 17:20 and 17:50, and our cars may drive on sand only in daylight. If you are late, skip the walk to Muqal Cave.Day 4
A slow day in the Wahiba Sands- Sunrise dune walk
- Al Mintirib
- Camel ride or Bedouin visit
- Guided dune trip
Details
Stay a second night in the desert. Walk up a dune for the sunrise and have a slow breakfast. In the cooler morning, drive out on the marked track to the old town of Al Mintirib on the northern edge of the sands. Back at camp, rest in the shade during the hot hours. Your camp can arrange a camel ride or a visit to a Bedouin family. Return to the dunes on foot for the sunset and a dark, clear night sky.
- Sunrise dune walk — Start walking up the nearest high dune about 30 minutes before sunrise, which is between about 6:10 and 6:45 from November to January. Walk, do not drive: it is not yet daylight, and you may drive on the dunes only in daylight.
- Al Mintirib — An old town about 9 km from Al Wasil, with a large mud-brick fort, palm gardens and old houses. Reports on the fort differ: some say it opens only on weekday mornings, others that it is closed for restoration. Check locally; you can always see it from outside.
- Camel ride or Bedouin visit — Ask your camp. Prices vary a lot between camps, so agree the price before you start.
- Guided dune trip — You may drive on the dunes in your rental car, but only in daylight: keep the tyres lowered and use low range. If you have never driven on sand, start with small dunes, or book a trip with a licensed local driver in their own vehicle to see the high dunes up close.
Where to sleep: Stay at the same camp or the same spot at the edge of the dunes. If you move to another camp, use its marked track and arrive before dark.Tip: The sand is very hot at midday and the light is flat. Plan walks for the first and last two hours of daylight, and drink often even when it feels cool. Desert nights from December to February are cool, often around 10–15 °C and sometimes colder, so keep warm layers ready.Photo: Bernhard Dunst · CC BY-SA 4.0
Day 5
Wahiba Sands to Al Mudayrib, Ibra and Jebel Akhdar- Al Mudayrib
- 7Ibra
- 8Birkat al Mawz
- Jebel Akhdar checkpoint
Details
Drive out on the same track in the cool morning and pump the tyres back to road pressure in Al Wasil before the highway. Stop in the old towns of Al Mudayrib and Ibra, then cross the plains west to Birkat al Mawz, an oasis town at the foot of Jebel Akhdar. Buy fuel, food and water there for two days. About 7 km up the D518 is the police checkpoint. From the checkpoint, the road gains about 1,200 m in some 30 km to the Saiq plateau, at around 1,900 to 2,000 m. Aim to arrive by mid-afternoon, so you choose your camp spot in daylight.
- Al Mudayrib — A short detour from the N4, about 20 km from Al Wasil towards Ibra. Walk the lanes of the old town to the fort, the hilltop watchtowers and the remains of the old souq.
- 7Ibra — Walk through the old quarter with its large mud-brick houses, many now in ruins. On Wednesday mornings, from about 6:00 until late morning, the women's souq sells fabrics, clothes, crafts and food. It is for women only, so men cannot go in. If today is a Wednesday, leave camp by 7:30 and go to Ibra first; Al Mudayrib is then a detour of about 45 km there and back, so skip it if you are short of time. Dress modestly and ask before you take photos of people.
- 8Birkat al Mawz — Walk through the palm gardens and the ruined old quarter below the mountain. Falaj Al Khatmeen, one of the five aflaj (water channels) on the UNESCO World Heritage list, runs through the courtyard of Bayt Ar-Ridaydah, a 17th-century fortified house that is open to visitors.
- Jebel Akhdar checkpoint — About 7 km up the D518 from Birkat al Mawz. Only 4x4 vehicles may continue, and the rule is enforced. Have your passports, driving licences and the car registration card (mulkiya) ready.
Where to sleep: Plan two nights on the plateau. Camp on open public ground, well away from houses, farms, terraces and hotels. Several popular spots with views into the gorges are on the rocky western part of the plateau, towards the Alila hotel. Park on a flat gravel spot and do not drive over plants. Jebel Akhdar became a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2025, and part of the mountain is the Al Jabal Al Akhdar Scenic Reserve, where camping or staying overnight needs a permit from the Environment Authority. Respect any signs and fences, and if you are not sure, ask at your hotel or at the checkpoint. Take all rubbish with you and cook only on the stove. From December to February the nights are cold, sometimes close to freezing.Tip: Fill the tank in Birkat al Mawz. There is only one fuel station on the plateau (Al Maha, in Saiq), and the climb uses more fuel than usual.Day 6
A day on foot on Jebel Akhdar- 9Al Aqur, Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah (path W18b)
- Wadi Bani Habib
- Sunset over the terraces
Details
Leave the car parked for most of the day and explore on foot. In the cool morning, walk the path through the terraced villages on the edge of the gorge. After lunch, drive to the end of the D518 and walk down into Wadi Bani Habib. Return to the rim for the sunset over the terraces. From about mid-March to early May, the damask roses on the terraces are picked to make rosewater.
- 9Al Aqur, Al Ayn and Ash Shirayjah (path W18b) — A signposted path links three villages on the edge of the gorge, about 4 km one way, with many steps and some rocky parts. The terraces grow pomegranates, walnuts and the damask roses used for rosewater. Allow 3 to 4 hours for the full path there and back. Stay on the path, and do not walk on the terraces or pick fruit or flowers.
- Wadi Bani Habib — The D518 ends here. From the car park, stone steps lead down into a green valley with walnut and other fruit trees and the ruins of an abandoned village of mud and stone houses. Allow 1 to 1.5 hours there and back.
- Sunset over the terraces — Diana's Point is inside the grounds of the Anantara resort, but there is a free viewpoint with a similar view over the terraces next to the Layali Al Jabal restaurant nearby.
Where to sleep: The same spot as last night, or another on open public ground on the plateau, away from houses, farms, terraces and hotels, and outside the scenic reserve unless you have a permit. There is no drinking water at the camp spots, so bring enough up from Birkat al Mawz.Tip: The air is cool at 2,000 m, but the sun is strong. Carry at least 2 litres of water per person on the village path, wear a hat, and start by about 8:00.Photo: dconvertini (Domenico Convertini), via Flickr · CC BY-SA 4.0
Day 7
Jebel Akhdar to Nizwa, Al Hamra, Misfat and Jebel Shams- 10Nizwa Fort, souq and Friday goat market
- Al Hamra
- 11Misfat al Abriyeen
- Wadi Ghul viewpoints
Details
Leave the plateau after breakfast and drive down in a low gear. Spend the morning in Nizwa. On a Friday, leave the plateau at first light, by about 6:00, to see the goat market: Nizwa is about 60 km and an hour away. Then drive north-west to Al Hamra and Misfat al Abriyeen, two old villages above palm gardens. Fill the tank at the Shell station in Al Hamra: there is no fuel station on Jebel Shams. The mountain road climbs past Ghul in steep bends. Near the top, parts of the road are graded gravel, and a two-year upgrade of the road started in January 2026, so expect roadworks, diversions and changing surfaces. Arrive before sunset, which from November to January is between about 17:25 and 17:55.
- 10Nizwa Fort, souq and Friday goat market — Climb the round tower of the 17th-century fort, 34 m high, for a view over the palm oasis. The fort opens daily at 8:00, with a midday break on Fridays from about 11:30 to 13:30. Closing time is given as 18:00 or 20:00 depending on the source, so check before you go. Entry is about 5 OMR per adult (2025-2026). On Fridays from about 6:30 to 9:30, farmers trade goats and cattle in the auction ring at the souq. Arrive by 7:00 and dress modestly.
- Al Hamra — The old quarter is one of the best-preserved mud-brick quarters in Oman, with rows of houses several storeys high. In Bait al Safah, a restored family house run as a small museum, local women show how Omani bread, coffee and other traditional products are made.
- 11Misfat al Abriyeen — Park at the village entrance, or in the car park further back when it is full, and walk down the lanes beside the falaj to the gardens. Allow 1 to 2 hours. Cover shoulders and knees, do not pick fruit, do not swim in the falaj pools, and stay out of private houses and the mosque.
- Wadi Ghul viewpoints — Stop near Ghul to see the ruined old village on its rocky hill at the mouth of the canyon. Higher up, several parking areas look down into the gorge, which is about 1,000 m deep.
Where to sleep: Plan two nights on the canyon rim between the Jebel Shams Resort and Al Khitaym, where the road ends, or on the open plateau before the resorts. Park on a flat spot well back from the edge and away from village houses. There is no water and no free toilet; the resorts and the walking trail have small paid toilets. Keep food and rubbish inside the car, because goats roam the rim and eat whatever is left out. Building work for a new visitor area is under way on the mountain, so some spots may be fenced off. The rim is windy, and from December to February the nights can drop to around or below 0 °C.Tip: On the long descent from Jebel Akhdar, use a low gear (L or manual mode in an automatic) and let the engine hold the car. Do not keep your foot on the brake: brakes overheat on long steep roads. The road has escape lanes for vehicles whose brakes fail.Day 8
The Balcony Walk and a quiet day on Jebel Shams- 12Balcony Walk (W6)
- Canyon rim at sunset
Details
Watch the early light on the canyon walls, then start the Balcony Walk early, while it is still cool. Have lunch back at camp and rest in the shade in the hottest hours. In the late afternoon, walk along the rim to the viewpoints and watch the sunset over the canyon. This is the second night in the same spot, so there is nothing to pack.
- 12Balcony Walk (W6) — The signposted path starts at Al Khitaym and follows a ledge along the canyon wall to the abandoned village of As Sab. It is about 8 km there and back. You lose a few hundred metres of height on the way out (sources give 200 to 350 m) and climb it again on the way back. Allow 3 to 5 hours, and more with long breaks. Most of the path has no railings, so it is not for people with vertigo. The small toilets at the start and along the path cost a few hundred baisa (about 0.3 to 0.5 OMR), so carry coins.
- Canyon rim at sunset — Walk along the rim from your camp to look down into the Wadi Ghul canyon, about 1,000 m deep. Stay well back from the edge.
Where to sleep: The same spot on the canyon rim. Keep food and rubbish inside the car because of the goats, and keep warm layers ready: the rim is windy and winter nights can drop to around or below 0 °C.Tip: Start the walk by about 8:00 and carry at least 2 litres of water per person. Past the resorts, the tracks along the rim get rougher: use only existing tracks, and ask us if you are not sure about one.Day 9
Bahla and Jabrin, back to Muscat- 13Bahla Fort
- 14Jabrin Castle
Details
Leave the rim after breakfast and drive down in a low gear to Al Hamra and on to Bahla. Visit Bahla Fort and then Jabrin Castle, about 10 km away. From Jabrin it is about 185 to 205 km, or 2 to 2.5 hours, to Muscat on the N2. Check in at your hotel. If you arrive in time, walk the Mutrah corniche in the evening, when the souq is at its liveliest.
- 13Bahla Fort — The first site in Oman on the UNESCO World Heritage list (1987): a large mud-brick fort above a palm oasis, inside an old town wall more than 12 km long. The official site gives 8:00 to 19:00 daily, but visitors in 2025 reported closing at 16:00 and Friday mornings only, so arrive early. Entry is OMR 4–5 per adult; check before you go. Bahla is also known for its potters.
- 14Jabrin Castle — A palace completed in 1675 for Imam Bil'arab bin Sultan, with painted wooden ceilings, carved doors and the Sun and Moon room. Open daily 7:30 to 21:00; entry about 3 OMR per foreign adult, check before you go.
Where to sleep: No camp tonight: book a hotel in Muscat for the last night, for example in Qurum, between the Grand Mosque and Mutrah, or in Mutrah, by the souq. In Muscat Governorate, camping is limited to the areas the municipality allows, at least 10 m back from the beach, and stays over 48 hours need a municipal permit.Tip: From November to January the sun sets between about 17:25 and 17:55, so keep the fort visits short if you want to drive the N2 in daylight. After dark, watch for camels and goats near villages.Photo: Eduard Marmet · CC BY-SA 2.0
Day 10
Muscat: the Grand Mosque, Mutrah and the return- 15Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
- 16Mutrah Souq
- Mutrah Corniche
Details
Start at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, which non-Muslims may visit only in the morning, from Saturday to Thursday. Then drive to Mutrah. Walk through the souq before it closes for the afternoon, and along the corniche by the harbour. Return the car at the airport or at your hotel; pick-up and return are between 08:00 and 20:00. If you start the trip on a Saturday, Day 10 is a Monday. If your Day 10 is a Friday, the mosque is closed to visitors, so see it on the morning of Day 1 instead.
- 15Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque — Opened in 2001, with five minarets and, in the main prayer hall, one of the largest hand-woven carpets in the world. Non-Muslim visitors: Saturday to Thursday, from 8:00 according to the national tourism site or 8:30 according to the mosque's own site, until 11:00, so arrive after 8:30. Men need long trousers and a shirt that covers the shoulders; women must cover arms, legs and hair. Abayas and headscarves are available at the entrance. Take off your shoes before the prayer hall. Allow at least 1.5 hours. An entry fee of about OMR 8 was introduced in January 2025. Several 2026 guides say it was withdrawn after a few weeks and entry is free, but the national tourism site still lists OMR 8, so check before you go.
- 16Mutrah Souq — A maze of covered lanes off the corniche, selling frankincense, incense burners, spices, perfumes, Omani caps, khanjar daggers and gold. In October 2026 its hours were given as 9:00 to 13:00 and 16:00 to 23:00 from Saturday to Thursday, and 9:00 to 11:00 and 16:00 to 23:00 on Friday. Hours change during Ramadan and on public holidays.
- Mutrah Corniche — The curved seafront at Mutrah, beside Sultan Qaboos Port. Walk it in the morning or after sunset, when it is cooler.
Where to sleep: No camp tonight. Return the car at the airport or at your hotel in Muscat, between 08:00 and 20:00. If you stay another night, book a hotel.Tip: Visit the mosque first: it closes to visitors at 11:00, and the souq stays open until 13:00. With an evening flight you have time for both and a late lunch in Mutrah.
Which car?
Over ten days you drive about 1,330 km and live out of the car for eight nights, so space and comfort matter more than on a short trip. The Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (OMR 75 per day, available from January) is the better fit for three or four people, thanks to its Family tent (2 adults + 2 children, or 3 adults), and it is quieter on the long N4 and N2 days. The Jeep Wrangler 4-door (OMR 55 per day) suits a couple who pack light, and it handles the Wahiba track, the Jebel Akhdar checkpoint and the gravel to the Jebel Shams rim just as well.
Practical tips
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- Tyres and sand: before the sand track to your desert camp, lower the tyres to about 18–20 psi (1.2–1.4 bar). Drive slowly and steadily, without sharp turns or hard braking. Pump the tyres back up with the compressor before you drive on tarmac. If you get stuck, stop at once, do not spin the wheels, and use the recovery boards or call us.
- Dunes in daylight: in the Wahiba Sands you may drive on the tracks and on the dunes, but only in daylight. On the dunes, keep the tyres lowered and use low range. If you have never driven on sand, start with small dunes or take a local guide. Never drive on sand after dark.
- Beaches and turtles: our cars may drive on a beach in daylight, but only where the law allows it. At Fins, follow the signs: some beaches in Muscat are closed to cars. Pitch the tent above the high-tide line. At the turtle reserves of Ras al Hadd and Ras al Jinz, driving on the beach is banned, and you must not camp or light fires on the nesting beaches. Where beach driving is allowed, obey the signs, check the tide before you drive onto the sand and park above the high-tide line.
- Mountain roads: downhill, always use a low gear. In an automatic car, select L or manual mode. Brake in short, firm pushes, not all the time. The Jebel Akhdar road has escape lanes for a reason.
- Heat and cold: from November to March, daytime highs on the coast and in the desert are mostly about 25–33 °C. Desert nights from December to February are often around 10–15 °C, and at about 2,000 m on Jebel Akhdar and Jebel Shams the nights can be close to 0 °C. Bring a warm jacket, a hat and warm socks as well as summer clothes.
- Fuel: fill up whenever the tank is half empty. Fill the tank in Al Wasil before the sand, in Birkat al Mawz before Jebel Akhdar and at the Shell station in Al Hamra before Jebel Shams. There is one fuel station on the Saiq plateau and none on Jebel Shams.
- Tickets and cash: carry cash in small notes. In 2026 the Wadi Shab boat cost 1 OMR per person return and the Ras al Jinz turtle tour OMR 12 per tourist adult. Nizwa Fort costs about 5 OMR per adult, Bahla Fort OMR 4–5 and Jabrin Castle about 3 OMR (2025-2026 reports). Opening hours differ between sources and change on Fridays, during Ramadan and on public holidays. Check before you go.
- Dress code: cover shoulders and knees in villages, forts, souqs and at the wadis. Swim in a T-shirt and shorts or leggings, not in a bikini. Ask before you take photos of people. During Ramadan (expected around 8 February to 9 March 2027; the exact dates depend on the moon), eating, drinking or smoking in public during the day is against the law for everyone, including non-Muslims.
- Water and food: carry at least 5 litres of water per person per day, plus a reserve in the car. There is no drinking water at wild camp spots in the desert or on either plateau. Restock in Sur, Ibra, Birkat al Mawz and Nizwa.
- Maps and road numbers: download offline maps of the whole route before you leave Muscat, and save the GPS position of each camp. The phone signal is weak in the wadis, the dunes and the canyons. Oman renumbered its main roads in 2019, so maps and signs may show either the new numbers (A2, N4, N2) or the old ones (Route 17, 23, 15). Ignore sat-nav shortcuts onto gravel mountain roads.
- Wadis and rain: never camp in a wadi bed, because a storm far away can send a flood down a dry valley. Do not drive in wadis, even when they are dry: our cars may not go in a wadi bed or on a track through or along a wadi. Never drive into water or onto a flooded road, and stay out of the wadis if rain is forecast in the mountains. Friday and Saturday are the weekend in Oman, so the wadis are quieter on weekdays.
- Where you may drive: our cars may not leave Oman. You may drive on paved and mountain roads. In daylight only, you may also drive on existing gravel, rocky and sand tracks, the dunes and beaches where the law allows it. Driving in wadis is not allowed: not in a wadi bed and not on a track that runs through or along a wadi. Paved roads that cross or run beside a wadi are fine, and so is driving to a wadi car park to walk in. If you are not sure about a track, ask us. Some guides suggest crossing the mountains through Wadi Bani Awf (Snake Canyon) on a steep gravel track. It runs through the wadi, so it is not allowed with our cars.
- Camping: keep away from villages, farms and private land, and take all rubbish with you. Cook on the gas stove. Do not light fires on vegetation, and do not collect wood or cut plants: collecting firewood needs a permit in Oman, and cutting or burning trees is illegal.
Questions
Is 10 days enough to see Oman by 4x4?
Ten days is enough for the main sights of northern Oman: the coast between Muscat and Ras al Jinz, Wadi Shab and Wadi Bani Khalid, the Wahiba Sands, Jebel Akhdar, Nizwa and Jebel Shams. This loop keeps most driving days under about 275 km and has three two-night stops. Dhofar and Salalah in the far south are not included: from Muscat they are a separate trip of about 1,000 km each way.
Which day of the week should I start the 10-day loop?
A Saturday start works well. Day 5 is then a Wednesday, the day of the women's souq in Ibra, and Day 7 is a Friday, the day of the goat market in Nizwa. Day 10 is a Monday, when the Grand Mosque is open to visitors in the morning. The only drawback is that Day 1 falls on the weekend, when Wadi Shab is busy, so walk it early on Day 2 instead.
Do I need to book the turtle tour at Ras al Jinz?
Yes. Book before you travel, online, by phone or by email; the contacts are on the reserve's official website. At night you may go onto the nesting beaches of the turtle reserve only with a registered guide. The night tour starts at 21:00 (arrive by 20:30) and the dawn tour at 5:00 (arrive by 4:45); times can change with the season. In October 2026 the reserve's website listed OMR 12 per tourist adult and OMR 6 per child aged 6 to 12. From October to April there are fewer turtles than in summer and a sighting is not guaranteed.
Can you camp in Wahiba Sands?
Yes. You can stay in a desert camp reached on a marked track from Al Wasil or Al Mintirib, or sleep in your rooftop tent at the edge of the dunes. Choose firm, flat ground, out of sight of houses, farms and other camps. With a DuneTribe4x4 car you may drive on the tracks and on the dunes in daylight, but never on sand after dark. Take all rubbish with you and do not light fires on or near plants.
Do I need a 4x4 for Jebel Akhdar and Jebel Shams?
For Jebel Akhdar, yes: a police checkpoint about 7 km up the road from Birkat al Mawz lets only 4x4 vehicles continue. For Jebel Shams there is no checkpoint, but the road is steep, parts near the top are gravel, and a two-year upgrade that started in January 2026 means roadworks and changing surfaces. Both DuneTribe4x4 cars, the Jeep Wrangler and the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado, are 4x4.
Can I add Dubai or Musandam to this trip?
Not with our cars: they may not leave Oman. Musandam is an exclave, separated from the rest of Oman by the United Arab Emirates, so you cannot drive there without crossing the border. This loop stays inside Oman from start to finish.
What is the best time for a 10-day road trip in Oman?
October to April. November to March is the most comfortable, with warm days on the coast and in the desert. From December to February the nights in the mountains are cold, around freezing on the Jebel Shams rim, so bring warm layers. From May to September it is often above 40 °C inland.
Ready to go?
Choose your dates. We hand over the car with the rooftop tent and the full camping kit at Muscat airport or at your hotel in Muscat.
More itineraries
Dunes and wadisWahiba Sands · Wadi Bani Khalid · Sur
The mountain loopNizwa · Jebel Shams · Jebel Akhdar
The south coastSur · Ras al Jinz · Sugar Dunes
One week in OmanCoast · Desert · Mountains
Two weeks in OmanCoast · Desert · Old towns · Mountains
Oman in fullWahiba · Duqm · Salalah · Jebel Shams
A month in OmanCoast · Desert · Dhofar · MountainsOman travel guides
Distances and driving times are approximate. Check road conditions, tides, weather and opening times before you go. Photos are licensed stock photos of the places, not of our cars.